Riviera Rambles
Looking for somewhere different to take your family, then how about this Riviera Maya threesome: Aktun Chen, Akumal and Yalkú Offering a taste of the quieter, natural side of the Mexican Caribbean, they combine beach fun, the coral kingdom and a glimpse of the Yucatan’s mysterious caves.
Hidden Wonders
First stop on your Riviera Ramble is Aktun Chen, a cave system deep in the jungle, a short distance to the south of Akumal. Three caves have been explored to date and one of them has been illuminated so that visitors can see its stalagmites and stalactites in all their glory.
During a guided tour of Aktun Chen, you’ll learn how caves, underground rivers and cenotes or sinkholes form in the Yucatán landscape. A vast slab of limestone, the Yucatán Peninsula is famous for the fact that its rivers lie not on the surface but deep underground! Limestone is porous and rainwater seeps into the ground through fissures, reacting with the rock to form weak carbonic acid and gradually dissolving and eroding it. Over millions of years, fissures and cavities are enlarged forming tunnels and caves through which streams flow. Erosion is twofold, from rainwater on the surface and underground rivers. Eventually the rock becomes so unstable that huge slabs carve off and cave roofs collapse, leading to the creation of sinkholes. In ancient times, these natural wells were the only source of fresh water for area inhabitants and Mexican hydrologists have discovered that the Yucatán still has the largest water reserves in the country.
The ancient Maya believed that caves and cenotes were portals to Xibalbá, the Underworld, the home of the gods, and when you visit one as impressive as Aktun Chen, it is easy to see why they were in such awe.
Aktun Chen caves are located in a 400-hectare reserve of tropical forest and there are trails so that you can go on your own jungle adventure with a guide to point out the local wildlife, which includes white-tailed deer, collared peccary and spider monkey.
The Place of the Turtles
By now you’ll be ready for the beach and the village of Akumal, just four kilometers to the north of Aktun Chen does not disappoint. With its sheltered bay, white sand and palm trees rustling in the breeze, Akumal is peaceful and unhurried, the perfect spot for a day out with the children.
First discovered by the international dive community in the 1950s, the reefs in the Akumal area are some of the finest in the Mexican Caribbean. A barrier reef hugs the shoreline and the sheltered waters of Akumal Bay, Half Moon Bay further north and Caleta Yalkú are perfect for snorkeling. Outside the reef, in open water, a series of coral ridges and terraces lie at depths of between 30 and 100 feet, stretching away from the coast. Marine life is abundant: you’ll see shoals of reef dwellers like jacks, blue tangs and pork fish, gaudy parrotfish, bat rays, groupers, and sea turtles.
Akumal means “place of the turtles” in Maya (ak is a turtle) and they are never far away. Green and loggerhead turtles are a common sight on local reefs and can even be spotted grazing on beds of sea grass in Half Moon Bay. If you see a turtle, don’t shout, make sudden movements or pursue it, keep still and if you are lucky it may come closer to check you out.
During the summer, female sea turtles emerge from the sea at night to lay their eggs on the beaches in the Akumal area and local volunteers patrol the shoreline to ensure that they are not disturbed. Most mornings, guests staying at beachfront condos wake up to find rustic miniature fences encircling new turtle nests.
Follow the coast road north from Akumal Bay past Half Moon Bay to the shores of Yalkú, a turquoise-colored inlet of crystal-clear waters constantly replenished by cenotes and underground rivers, hence the refreshingly cool temperature.
Yalkú is a natural aquarium frequented by a variety of colorful reef fish that come inshore to feed or breed among the mangrove roots and submerged rocks. You are sure to see sergeant majors and damselfish patrolling the shoreline, surgeon and angel fish cruising by and even a solitary barracuda guarding its territory. This is a lovely spot, especially in the morning. After a couple of hours in the water you’ll definitely be ready to swap fish notes with the dive crowd!
A local cooperative manages Yalkú and charges a fee for admission. Life jackets are available and there are restrooms on site.
If you go
Thomas More Travel offers several trips to Aktun Chen, Akumal and Yalkú, for more information visit www.thomasmoretravel.com, email: tourdesk@royalresorts.com
or ask at the tour desk upon arrival at the Royal Resorts in Cancún and the Riviera Maya.
Another option is to rent a car and explore at your own pace; Akumal is about an hour and 20 minutes south of Cancún and 37 kilometers from Playa del Carmen.
